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Which Rechargeable Batteries Do You Use?

Cliff posted more than 7 years ago | from the they-keep-going-and-going dept.

Power 176

kramer2718 asks: "I go through a lot of batteries in my digital camera, remote controls, etc. I'd like to go to the rechargeable route for the environment and for my pocketbook, but I don't know which rechargeable batteries are the best. Can anyone out there give me some advice about which brand and types of batteries work well?"

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176 comments

Fire Marshall Bill (5, Funny)

CmdrPorno (115048) | more than 7 years ago | (#17592534)

Lithium-ion ones made by Sony.

Re:Fire Marshall Bill (0, Redundant)

jonnyredbeard (892261) | more than 7 years ago | (#17593292)

I would not buy a sony li-ion battery as .5 billion dollars in recalls last year. I say radio shack has the best batteries with energizer coming in a close second (they are made at the same manufacturing plants). http://www.imaging-resource.com/ACCS/BATTS/BATTS.H [imaging-resource.com] TM [imaging-resource.com] The Radioshack batteries listed here are 1600MAH model wich they do not sell anymore its a 2000mah now. So performance is greater.

Re:Fire Marshall Bill (0)

Anonymous Coward | more than 7 years ago | (#17594206)

*whoosh*

Re:Fire Marshall Bill (1)

slurry47 (27097) | more than 7 years ago | (#17595846)

I like your joke. Still, I'd like to point out that you can't get standard size (AA, 9 volt, etc.) rechargeable batteries. They need special circuitry to avoid exactly what you joke implies.

Sort of off topic -- apparently one can use a welder or other high powered device to revive worn out rechargeable batteries. http://www.instructables.com/id/EPV474YLF3EV2Z8V9V / [instructables.com] Hopefully I won't remember this the next time I'm drunk.

After about 15 minutes (-1, Offtopic)

Anonymous Coward | more than 7 years ago | (#17592556)

I am fully recharged and ready for more action!

(Thanks Chris Elliot/David Letterman)

MAHA NiMH. (4, Informative)

Anonymous Coward | more than 7 years ago | (#17592582)

MAHA NiMH from http://www.thomasdistributing.com/ [thomasdistributing.com] . I've had several that have been working perfectly for more than half a decade now.

Re:MAHA NiMH. (2, Interesting)

nek (534149) | more than 7 years ago | (#17593764)

I can't agree more. Couple those high-capacity NiMH MAHA cells with a good MAHA charger and it's a match made in heaven. I have been using some 2500 maH MAHA cells in some wireless Clear-Com and radios and wireless mics for a year now and have saved $500 in battery costs. At home, I use them in my digital camera, iPod speakers and portable radios. MAHA kick ass. I recommend their new 8-bay AA/AAA charger: http://www.thomas-distributing.com/maha-mh-c801d-b attery-charger.htm [thomas-distributing.com]

Re:MAHA NiMH. (4, Informative)

rvw (755107) | more than 7 years ago | (#17594070)

You should indeed buy NiMH batteries (not NiCd). I've used Sony and several B-brands, all of them working okay. But beware that not only the batteries are important, but the charger can make a big difference as well. All these batteries suffer from memory-effects (even if they claim NiMH does not). After a while they seem to wear out. At one moment, you charge them, want to use them, and they stop working after a second or so. Then you need to discharge (refresh) them completely. In fact, you should have done this long before. Special rechargers offer the function to discharge them completely before charging. This discharge draws them empty completely.

I use a Sony charger, like the Sony BCG-34HRMF4 Super Quick Charger [amazon.com].

Re:MAHA NiMH. (5, Informative)

Anonymous Coward | more than 7 years ago | (#17595438)

I'm afraid you're mistaken about the "memory effect". There never was a memory effect in consumer-grade batteries, NiCd or NiMH. What people experienced, and what was called "memory effect" was in fact overcharging due to crappy timer-based chargers.

When you put a partially-charged cell into a timer-based charger, the charging circuit won't shut off until well after the cell is cooked, thus the directions to fully discharge the battery before recharging.

However, with modern electronically controlled chargers (Such as the Energizer 30 or 15-minute NiMH charger) this is no longer an issue, and the wear on the battery caused by deep cycling far exceeds any risk of overcharging the cell.

My suggestion is to use NiMH cells in anything that tends to wear down the batteries fairly quickly (cameras, portable electronics, etc) and get a GOOD charger; a charger rated for 30 minutes or below will be electronically controlled and will maximize cell life. Be prepared to spend $50 on a charger.

For any low drain applications such as remote controls, smoke alarms, flashlights etc, your best bet is to use the non-rechargable lithium batteries that have recently become available in AA and AAA sizes. Unlike NiMH, NiCd and Alkaline to a lesser extent, Lithium batteries do not self-discharge over time, so they're perfect for applications where you want a long shelf life between uses. Lithiums also perform well in high-drain devices, but other cell types are much less expensive for such uses ('titanium' alkaline or NiMH).

(captcha on this post is 'loosing', no wonder nobody around here can spell 'losing')

Ouch. Look at those prices! (1)

Futurepower(R) (558542) | more than 7 years ago | (#17594386)

The prices at Thomas Distributing are VERY high, in my opinion. The charger recommended is $70. The batteries are more than twice what they cost during a sale at Fry's.

Overnight Battery Charger With 4 AA Ni-MH Batteries [outpost.com], $11.99, regular price.

Re:Ouch. Look at those prices! (1)

Simon80 (874052) | more than 7 years ago | (#17594778)

An overnight battery charger != a one hour charger with a conditioning cycle. The OP was looking for recommendations, not for the cheapest thing he can get. (That said, I have no idea if the recommendations are well founded or not)

Re:Ouch. Look at those prices! (1)

fistfullast33l (819270) | more than 7 years ago | (#17595662)

I bought this charger [thomasdistributing.com] about two years ago and I love it. The batteries last forever and the charger is perfect - very small, portable (charge in your car's lighter) and fast - I use the slow charge mode and it takes about 4 hours. Even better, it has trickle charge so the batteries aren't overcharged but will remain at full power. It's worth the $50 investment (with 4 batteries!), trust me. I was redeemed even further when I saw that HP has moved to using MAHA Batteries [hp.com] as well for their rechargeable AA battery solution.

Re:Ouch. Look at those prices! (1)

acvh (120205) | more than 7 years ago | (#17596208)

Gotta put in my 2 cents on Thomas Distributing. I've been using 3 sets of four AAs from Thomas for over four years now, and they work as well as the day I got them. Add up what I would have spent on Duracells and this was a bargain.

NIMH here (5, Informative)

Anonymous Coward | more than 7 years ago | (#17592640)

18 pack of ray o vac NIMH's. Energizer charger.

Further, I made an effort to simplify devices around them:

1. My flashlights use them
2. My mp3 player uses them
3. The flash on my canon XT uses them
4. I bought a bluetooth headset that uses them ( 1 x aaa ) Motorola H300
5. My wireless mice use them ( both use 2 x aa )

YMMV, but NIMHs are a good way to go. LiPo and LiIon I dont think are really as common or as inexpensive.

Energizer (2)

shlepp (796599) | more than 7 years ago | (#17592650)

Energizer's nickel-hydride, the recharge fast and last a pair last a couple weeks in my 360 controllers, i have 8 of them in total and doubt i will be buying batteries for a long time to come.

Rayovac's OK, but I'd say Energizer (4, Informative)

Yooden_Vranx (758878) | more than 7 years ago | (#17592652)

I use Rayovac's nickel metal hydrides. I started out with Rayovac's alkalines, which were one of the first on the market, and just stuck with them since I don't want to buy new chargers. If I were just buying today, I'd go with Energizer over Rayovac because not everyone stocks the Rayovacs, but the Rayovacs do work pretty well. I don't have any actual experience with Energizer. I don't have a speed charger, so it does take a few hours to recharge them if they're pretty deeply drawn down. I haven't seen any alkaline rechargeable in a long time, but even if you do, definitely go NiMH. The alkalines don't have a very high peak power, and if you ever drain them completely, they can't be recharged.

Ni-Metal (4, Insightful)

stonefoz (901011) | more than 7 years ago | (#17592666)

I still don't trust lithium-ion for regular uses, the device really needs an onboard controller just to keep them safe. Can't overcharge, voltage spike, drain too far, temp ect. However any device will be happy with Ni-Metal. Ni-Metal has the closest performance next to lithium-ion with the only drawback is weight, nickel is heavy.

Re:Ni-Metal (0)

Anonymous Coward | more than 7 years ago | (#17592832)

I think you are referring to Lithium-Polymer with the unsafe bit.

The ones that came with my laptop comp (1)

FractalZone (950570) | more than 7 years ago | (#17592672)

Seriously. I went through a phase where I bought a bunch of rechargeable AAA, AA, C, D and 9V batteries, along with some chargers.

I have since realized that I can do without most battery operated devices that take standard external rechargeable batteries. I'm thinking hard about the batteries I do recharge often, and they are in my: laptop computer, electric razor, power bit driver, automobile, and cellular phone. Hmmm.

Re:The ones that came with my laptop comp (3, Interesting)

Dr.Dubious DDQ (11968) | more than 7 years ago | (#17594962)

As far as I've ever been able to find, C and D rechargeables are complete rip-offs.

Every time I see a rechargeable C or D, they appear to have exactly the same capacity as a mid-range AA. Apparently, they just stick a AA core inside a C or D sized "shell". Anybody ever found a "real" NiMH D-Cell?

USB-Powered (1)

micksam7 (1026240) | more than 7 years ago | (#17592718)

I use those usb-charged batterys over at ThinkGeek. Work great in my digital camera. Too bad they can't be AAA-sized for some of my TV remotes and my TI-calc.

Re:USB-Powered (1)

Technician (215283) | more than 7 years ago | (#17594216)

Too bad they can't be AAA-sized for some of my TV remotes

Very low average power use is not an application for rechargable batteries. Considering that rechargable batteries often die after less than 5 years use and self discharge in under 6 months, it is very hard to justify using rechargable batteries in things like a tv remote or smoke detector. A 5 year supply of batteries for a TV remote is less than 5 sets of batteries for most people. Unless you channel surf constantly, there isn't much draw on a TV remote's batteries.

The other place I don't use rechargable batteries is in the LED flashlights I keep next to the generator and electrical panel. I don't need to find self discharged batteries in a critical moment.

A good rule of thumb is use rechargable batteries in applications that would typicaly kill a battery in under a month of typical use. Good uses are MP3 players, digital cameras, CD players, laptop computers, cordless keyboard & mouse, cell phone, workbench flashlights, electric razors, and other higher current items. Don't use them in items where you change the battery once a year or so such as smoke detectors, emergency kit radios and flashlights, alarm sensors, watches, backup batteries for the clockradio, TV remote, etc.

Re:USB-Powered (1)

roseblood (631824) | more than 7 years ago | (#17594950)

I bet to differ with the parent. The remote I use for my HTPC setup is the one that comes with Radeon AIW video cards. With a little irblaster and few scripts on the HTPC I can (and do) use the one remote to operate everything connected to the TV. That thing eats up far more than 5 sets of batteries a year. Imagine the folks with the really fancy remotes with LCD touch screens and the like. Remotes have come along way sense the 80's my friend.

I do agree with you on smoke alrams, flashlights, or any emergency "must work now" gear that does not see frequent use.

Re:USB-Powered (0)

Anonymous Coward | more than 7 years ago | (#17595652)

1) The phrase is: BEG to differ.
2) That's a fringe case.

Of COURSE in your high-drain remote rechargeables are a good option. That's NOT what that post was referring to. He was talking of your everyday run-of-the-mill remote where the batteries will die out perhaps once every year or three.

www.thomas-distributing.com has it all (5, Informative)

holden caufield (111364) | more than 7 years ago | (#17592728)

I have no connection to this company, other than being a satisfied customer, but what you want to do is to purchase Powerex NiMH batteries, and a MAHA - MH-C204W Smart World Travel Conditioning Battery Charger.

Then you will be a satisified customer too.

Re:www.thomas-distributing.com has it all (1)

Danse (1026) | more than 7 years ago | (#17592754)

I have no connection to this company, other than being a satisfied customer, but what you want to do is to purchase Powerex NiMH batteries, and a MAHA - MH-C204W Smart World Travel Conditioning Battery Charger.

Seconded. I bought these for my camera, and they've been great. The charger is the best I've used.

Re:www.thomas-distributing.com has it all (1)

leiz (35205) | more than 7 years ago | (#17593982)

I bought nimh batteries from thomas-distributing as well and I'm happy with them. I also have a bunch of ray-o-vac rechargable alkalines. You should buy the right type of battery depending on your situation:

The nimh batteries work great for items like mp3 players and cameras that draw a lot of power. Rechargable alkalines tend to die after half an hour in my mp3 player. Rechargable alkalines work better in items like graphing calculators and palmpilots, which does not drain the battery as fast. In these devices, nimh batteries do not work well because they slowly lose their charge over a few weeks and then one day you try to turn on your calculator and it doesn't work.

In any case, you have to make an effort to remember to charge the batteries, but it really helps the environment because you're reducing the amount of battery waste by 10X-100X.

Check out this site (1)

namityadav (989838) | more than 7 years ago | (#17592758)

You didn't specify what kind of batteries the camera takes. But I'll assume it is AA.

I think the obvious choice will be some high capacity NiMH batteries. Now-a-days we have a wide choice of cells ranging from 1500 to 2700mAh. Obviously, higher capacity means longer run time.

You can find more info here: http://www.steves-digicams.com/nimh_batteries.html [steves-digicams.com]

Re:Check out this site (2, Interesting)

berzerke (319205) | more than 7 years ago | (#17594194)

...cells ranging from 1500 to 2700mAh...

Be warned that the manufacturer's cheat with the higher mAh batteries. They say they are a certain size, but actually the batteries are slightly bigger than their stated size. More chemicials mean more mAh, but more chemicals also need more space.

The upshot of this is if the battery compartment is tight, the larger mAh batteries won't fit as they are not the standard size. There is an upper limit. For AA, it seems to be about 2000-2200 mAh from my experience. The 2400 AA's I bought actually fit in only a few of my devices.

Re:Check out this site (1)

Threni (635302) | more than 7 years ago | (#17594820)

Think that's just a dodgy batch you've got. I've never been particular about which brand of battery I've bought - I just get the highest mAh rated AA rechargeables I can (afford), and I've not noticed them coming in different shapes and sizes.

Re:Check out this site (1)

berzerke (319205) | more than 7 years ago | (#17595214)

...I've not noticed them coming in different shapes and sizes.

Again, if the battery compartment is loose fitting, you probably won't notice a difference. The 2400's do fit a few of my devices. But there are other devices they won't fit in.

Re:Check out this site (1)

Threni (635302) | more than 7 years ago | (#17596022)

Sounds like your battery compartment doesn't conform to whatever standard batteries use (if any).

Re:Check out this site (2, Interesting)

Russellkhan (570824) | more than 7 years ago | (#17596206)

I've also had no problems. I use 2700 & 2900mAH AAs in my Canon digital camera, which has what looks to me to be a fairly tight compartment (individual slots for each battery - and yes, it looks tight with standard non-rechargables, not just with my high mAH batteries).

I'd mention the problem to whichever place you bought your batteries from. You may get a refund or exchange, and I'm sure they'd be interested in knowing that the product doesn't conform to its spec.

nonrechargable (0)

Anonymous Coward | more than 7 years ago | (#17592854)

There is always the non-rechargable route. Just go to Costco and pick up 48 AA for $9. That will last you a lot of pictures on your digital camera!

Re:nonrechargable (1)

Turken (139591) | more than 7 years ago | (#17593458)

After taking a few international trips, I've decided that Energizer's non-rechargable lithium batteries are essential for my digital camera. They may cost 4-5 times as much as traditional alkalines, but they also last 4-5 times longer and weigh significantly less. I can easily take a few thousand pictures on only a dozen batteries purchased from Sams Club for ~$18, and I don't have to worry at all about self-discharge or plug/voltage issues with chargers.

Comparison site (4, Informative)

ximenes (10) | more than 7 years ago | (#17592856)

http://www.imaging-resource.com/ACCS/BATTS/BATTS.H TM [imaging-resource.com] has comparisons of various brands from a year or two ago. It seems like basically PowerEx is the way to go, particularly when you take into account that they are now available in 2700 mAh versions. The highest mAh AA NiMH battery that I could find is from Accupower at 2900 mAh. However, they don't seem to perform as well as Sanyo 2700 mAh batteries, and so I would guess that they are also inferior to the PowerEx 2700 mAh ones.

The important thing to remember is that anything towards the top of a comparison list is probably going to work fine; you don't necessary need the very finest NiMH battery available on the market today. For instance, I have some Sanyo 2300 mAh batteries that work just fine.

It seems like www.thomasdistributing.com is the place to buy batteries if you're looking for a reputable online store.

Re:Comparison site (1)

LordNightwalker (256873) | more than 7 years ago | (#17593144)

Those Sanyo 2700 mAH batteries, I take it you're refering to the "Superlattice Alloy [nimhbattery.com]" types? They been performing well for you? I bought 8 of them, but they lose their charge over a timespan of 2 to 3 weeks, while lying on the shelf. However, I assume it's because of the crappy Memorex charger I charged them in the first couple of weeks (didn't have a decent charger back then, and it said on the charger that it was suitable for NiCd and NiMH, so I went with that). Now, no matter what I do to them in my Ansmann charger that does a great job on the included 2300 mAH batteries, I can't seem to get those Sanyos to perform. They're still OK for high drain applications, but not for long term storage while not in use.

Long story short, at first I thought that it must've been some annoying trait of NiMH batteries, but when the new batteries that came with the Ansmann charger proved me wrong, I started suspecting I might've overcharged them with the old crappy charger... If you can confirm those batteries actually work great for you, then I can safely assume this to be the case. In which case: does anyone here know a way to revive NiMH batteries that have been overcharged and/or undercharged a couple of times too many?

Re:Comparison site (0)

Anonymous Coward | more than 7 years ago | (#17595520)

I got some AA "Vanson" 1800mAh Ni-MH and they also tend to lose all power - whether it takes 2 to 3 weeks as you mentioned I don't know

NiMh for me (2, Interesting)

thomasdz (178114) | more than 7 years ago | (#17592878)

I'm a big fan of "middle of the road" NiMh
I know I'm not getting the biggest bang for the buck, but lately, any of the Lithium batteries scare me and NiCad's have that memory effect (and Cadmium is a environmental baddie).
They ALL have their good points and bad points... heck good old lead-acid is great for long-term, always topped up storage like emergency lighting and car batteries.

And by the way, Offtopic I know...I really detest things that have four AAA cells instead of two AA cells... you don't get a huge saving in thickness and AA cells seem to last way longer anyway

I was going to do another "funny" post (anonymously), but I'm late for an appointment already, so here it is:
Rechargable? Heck, I stick a copper penny and zinc-coated nail into a lemon if I want a battery. None of these newfangled

So mod me funny OR insightful OR offtopic! This post has it all.
TDz.

The charger matters more (4, Informative)

Clueless Moron (548336) | more than 7 years ago | (#17592946)

A cheap-ass charger overheats your batteries and drastically shortens their lifetime. A negative delta-V charger (like a MH-C777PLUS or that ilk) detects the teeny teeny tiny little voltage drops that NiCd and NiMH batteries do when they reach peak charge and stop right there.

I've always just bought whatever high capacity stuff I can find that's on sale and use a nice charger. I've had cells last nearly ten years by babying them this way.

As for the batteries, NiMH have higher capacity but a pretty horrible self-discharge rate. NiCds are a bit better, but to get decent usage out of either you really need to make a habit of topping them up before going off on your little expeditions. And always, always bring some alkalines with you. Their shelf life is phenomenal.

Oh, and don't forget that the NiCd memory effect is a myth [repairfaq.org]. Let it die, already.

Just pick up a NiMH quick charger and battery pack (1)

Hadlock (143607) | more than 7 years ago | (#17592980)

I picked up a Lenmar quick charger with 4 2700mAh batteries three years ago for $20. I can typically get 1000 shots (20% of them flash) or 45 minutes of video out of my old Canon Powershot A80. Plus it came with a 12v car adapter. I think they're relabeled sanyo batteries, which are pretty much the best on the market as far as I can tell. Charges in about 30 min (As advertised). I picked up a second set of 2500mAh batteries for about $12.
 
oonly down side is that they lose 2-3% of their charge per day, so it's always a good idea to have a set of alkalines on hand as backup.

Cheep Ni-Cad ones (1)

lhaeh (463179) | more than 7 years ago | (#17593042)

Rather then waste money and time on the pricey ones, I just but the really cheep ones from the local dollar store @ $0.50. That way I can put them into low drain and occasional use devices like remotes, alarm clock backup, flashlights, portable test equipment, etc.

The ones I get now are made in china and are labeled as 600/300mAh for AA/AAA. I also go with older, but never used chargers from a local surplus store that go for under $5 each. I used to buy really expensive chargers and batteries, but found that it was much easier to just buy a lot of cheep ones then a few expensive ones.

The only issues with them are that I go through them faster and therefore more end up having to be disposed of properly and I have to carry more of them around for high drain devices. These issues don't really bother me as I'm sure the mAh on the cheep ones will go up over time and they are lighter then the expensive ones so carrying around more isn't too bad.

Re:Cheep Ni-Cad ones (1)

Beryllium Sphere(tm) (193358) | more than 7 years ago | (#17593686)

>low drain and occasional use devices like remotes, alarm clock backup, flashlights, portable test equipment, etc.

Rechargeables are the wrong choice for those. They self-discharge while the unit is on the shelf. Rechargeables are less annoying, and better able to pay for themselves, in regular heavy usage.

Cheap chargers, by the way, are destructive.

Re:Cheep Ni-Cad ones (1)

lhaeh (463179) | more than 7 years ago | (#17595496)

Although they do discharge on their own, it is not as fast as Ni-MH. They are good for at least 6 months IIRC. Even regular batteries lose their charge over time, the only ones that I'm aware of that don't are Li-C batteries. Just using them in hi-drain devices made a lot of sense in the past, but now that they cost next to nothing I find it makes sense for me to use them in almost any application.

The most expensive charger I bought ($90 at the time) thought it was a good idea to discharge my Ni-MH batteries before charging them, killing their lifetime. The cheep ones do need you to remember them to keep from killing via overcharge, but this is easily solved with an external timer. Since they are not rapid chargers I don't have to worry about starting with a slow charge.

Re:Cheep Ni-Cad ones (1)

jabuzz (182671) | more than 7 years ago | (#17596020)

Oh woopy I need to recharge my remote batteries very six months, instead of changing them maybe once in the lifespan of the device. It is not economic for low current drain devices that will last years with alkaline batteries to use an expensive rechargable.

Re:Cheep Ni-Cad ones (1, Insightful)

Anonymous Coward | more than 7 years ago | (#17593714)

The only issues with them are that I go through them faster and therefore more end up having to be disposed of properly and I have to carry more of them around for high drain devices.
So then don't. Not only is the Cadmium part of NiCad significantly more toxic than anything that's used in NiMHs, you end up with just a quarter of the capacity of NiMHs (>2400mAh and 1200mAh for AA and AAA respectively) and even less of it usable, since NiMHs work significantly better with high drain devices. NiMHs can be charged faster, they don't degrade as quickly as NiCads. Their only drawbacks are higher price and a higher self discharge rate, i.e. they lose charge by just resting on the shelf.

Re:Cheep Ni-Cad ones (1)

Technician (215283) | more than 7 years ago | (#17594306)

I just but the really cheep ones from the local dollar store @ $0.50. & portable test equipment

Use them in only cheap flashlights. I've seen too many cheap Ni-Cad batteries turn the spring contacts and wires into green powder. I would not want that in my digital camera or test equipment.

I use NiMH (3, Insightful)

grishnav (522003) | more than 7 years ago | (#17593052)

To learn about the different chemistries:

http://batteryuniversity.com/ [batteryuniversity.com]

I've found NiMH to be the best balance for all my applications.

I've had good luck buying NiMH in bulk from this company:

http://www.shorelinemarket.com/ [shorelinemarket.com]

I've purchased AA and AAAs in bulk from them (Tenergy AAs and Powerizer AAAs). While they aren't the highest capacity batteries available, they are pretty close, and I haven't been able to beat the price per cell on comparable batteries or the price per MaH.

The AAs seem to do a bit better in high-drain, as they seem to bleed a full charge in about four-six months, which means something that might run practically forever on a set (like a transistor radio you don't use often, or a small scanner), usually won't eat the batteries before they eat themselves. But they've done really well for me.

I'm not real happy with the Powerizers. They seem more like 400-500mah than 850, but alas, I can't really test them. I'm tempted to buy some of the Tenergy AAs to try, but unfortunately I've already got a bunch of the Powerizers.
I also purchased their 10-position AA/AAA charger/discharger. It works fine, but makes this annoying buzz every second or so as it charges and discharges, I'm assuming because of cheap components. Invest the extra bucks for a nice Maha.

Anyway, read up at battery university before you go making any purchases. There is a lot of good info there. Just keep in mind they are operated buy the guy who runs Cadex.

Energizer NiMH or Lithium Ion (1)

Chanc_Gorkon (94133) | more than 7 years ago | (#17593180)

I use the Energizer NiMH witha 15 Minute charger.....all sizes. They charge up quickly and last a long time if you get the higher amp hour ones.

I've given up on 'em. (3, Informative)

dpbsmith (263124) | more than 7 years ago | (#17593278)

A few years back I made a big push to try to save money by using rechargeable batteries. I gave up on them. Here are my personal experiences. Your mileage may vary.

--How well devices on 1.2V rechargeable batteries varies a lot from one device to another. Some work just fine. Quite a few work poorly enough to be a nuisance. Conventional incandescent-bulb flashlights, for example, sort of work but are distinctly dim and yellowish. Many motorized devices are noticeably weak and lethargic. You can't really tell how well a device will work until you try it. And then you need to keep mental track of which devices you can use the rechargeables in. I had a cassette recorder that would play OK on 1.2V batteries, but when recording it didn't have quite enough power to hold the recording speed steady and the recordings would have some "wow" and unevenness to them.

--Rechargeables store distinctly less energy, i.e. don't last anywhere near as long on a single charge as a disposable. This creates a large nuisance factor. Even if the device is only going to be used at home, it means that if you have devices that take N disposable batteries, you will need considerably more than N rechargeables, and probably more charges than you thought, in order to have freshly charged batteries always ready to swap in.

--The nuisance factor of storing less energy is considerable. If my wife takes her camera on a vacation, she can put in an (expensive) disposable lithium at the start and that's it, she's set, no charger to drag along.

--Rechargeables lose energy if not kept in the charger. This means you can't just keep a drawerful of freshly-charged batteries available.

--Rechargeables die fairly quickly, typically in about two years. And suffer reduced capacity as they age. Yes, they do this no matter how anal you are about following whatever your favorite superstitious battery-care ritual ([always|never] discharge them completely before recharging, [do|don't] just leave them continuously charging in the charger, etc.) Individual batteries have enormous individual variation in their useful life. You can have two "C" batteries bought in the same package at the same time and one may suddenly crap out in a year, the other may be going strong after four... which makes the management problem more complicated.

ACTUAL USEFUL TIP: In my experience, smaller rechargeables were very consistently worse in terms of premature failure. AA's were terrible. D's were pretty good.

--It is like pulling teeth to get a manufacturer to replace a rechargeable battery that has failed "early." They know darn well the products aren't long-lived and will not just happily replace them on your say-so.

--Because of the various factors mentioned, you cannot just replace all the alkaline disposables in your house with rechargeables, so you still need to have a drawerful of alkaline D's, C's, AA's, and AAA's as well as finding space for a charger or two and another outlet strip and so forth.

--Because rechargeables require a certain amount of attention... what does it mean when the charger is showing a flashing red light? a steady green light? etc... and because so many of us develop our own personal rituals ("the charger on the left is with the charged batteries that are ready for use and just being kept topped up...") you can't really share rechargeables with other family members—even adult members, certainly not kids—except on the basis of "every time you need a battery come see me."

--Because the rechargeable batteries themselves are expensive, and because the chargers are expensive (and because it's never completely clear whether it's safe to use any charger other than the one designed specifically for the specific batteries) and because the batteries tend to fail in a few years, it is not at all clear that you actually save money using them in a general way.

Obviously, if you have a battery-hungry device that you use all the time that runs fine off 1.2V rechargeables... say one that you use so often that you replace the batteries every week... you may save money.

Re:I've given up on 'em. (1)

Beryllium Sphere(tm) (193358) | more than 7 years ago | (#17593720)

*and* in the case of Ni-Cds you can't just throw them in the household trash, not if you're at all responsible. You get the joys of finding where to recycle hazmat.

Re:I've given up on 'em. (1)

Deagol (323173) | more than 7 years ago | (#17593998)

I didn't think you were really supposed to toss disposable alkalines in the trash, at least if you want a green conscience.

Re:I've given up on 'em. (1)

saviorsloth (467974) | more than 7 years ago | (#17594008)

i don't want to be rude, but really you shouldn't be throwing any batteries in the trash at all. while they're not all hazmats like Ni-Cd, they're all pretty nasty. i know it's a pain in the ass but most cities will have a couple of free battery disposal periods during the year or something (i think).
as a matter of full disclosure i should probably state that i've never gotten up the gumption to actually take advantage of these things, but i also have various "dead battery depots" containing every battery i've used since childhood (i'm 22 now). it doesn't seem to be so bad so far, the bottom of the buckets haven't been corroded by battery acid, and i'm fairly sure that someday i will take advantage of a battery disposal period for the whole lot of them.
at any rate, if anyone can even find those ridiculously shitty Ni-Cd batteries these days, they deserve some sort of medal, 'cause NiMh batteries are so much better in every way that i'm aware of. i think they also alleviate a fair number of the grandparent post's concerns. besides, for anything more battery hungry than a remote control, rechargables probably will save you money in the medium to long term. maybe just keep a set of good disposables for when you need backups for your camera or something.

Re:I've given up on 'em. (5, Insightful)

evilviper (135110) | more than 7 years ago | (#17595132)

A few years back I made a big push to try to save money by using rechargeable batteries. I gave up on them.

Your experience is seriously out-of-date, and just about the exact opposite of reality now.

How well devices on 1.2V rechargeable batteries varies a lot from one device to another. Some work just fine. Quite a few work poorly enough to be a nuisance.

1) The more batteries a device has, the more chance that there will be a problem. Anything that only uses 2 batteries will be fine. 4 should be okay as well. 6-8 and you've got a real issue. In that case, some higher-end devices have extra compartments for extra rechargable batteries. On my Sega Nomad, I added a couple myself.

2) Panasonic's NiCD batteries are rated at 1.25 volts, which helps.

3) Alkaline batteries offer lower voltages over time, as they become drained, so just about everything has to be able to operate on 1.2V anyhow, otherwise it will have horendous battery life. NiCD batteries, unlike Alkalines, will hold their 1.2V until they're almost completely drained. That works great in most modern devices, but is considered a drawback in flashlights because you get no warning.

4) But more than that. Modern Ni-MH batteries, though rated at 1.2V, really offer 1.5V (in my own tests) when freshly charged, and slowly go down, like Alkalines.

Rechargeables store distinctly less energy, i.e. don't last anywhere near as long on a single charge as a disposable.

This hasn't been true for over a decade.

1) "High capacity" AA NiCDs from Radioshack (850mAH?) have just slightly less power than Alkalines, and have been sold for at least a decade now.

2) High Capacity AA Panasonic NiCDs (1100mAH) last as long or longer than Alkalines, DESPITE the lower voltage of NiCD.

3) NiMH AA batteries, as sold by Energizer and Duracell (2000+ mAH), last nearly TWICE as long as disposible Alkaline batteries.

Rechargeables lose energy if not kept in the charger.

1) True for NiCD, but absolutely not true for NiMH. NiMH batteries will hold their charge for months.

2) I haven't seen an always-on charger in well over a decade. So your experience is obviously very out-of-date, and not remotely applicable or helpful.

3) Recent batteries and chargers have gotten charge time down to 30 minutes, so unless you are in a situation desperately need a battery R

4) Leaving NiCD batteries constantly charging will significantly reduces their lifespan. That may have been causing some of the other issues you listed.

Rechargeables die fairly quickly, typically in about two years. And suffer reduced capacity as they age.

1) Really crappy NiCDs, under an extremely heavy duty cycle, may have the life you describe. The better ones will last far longer. And in more realistic usage, even the crappy ones will last far more than a year.

2) NiMH have no such problems. They'll last for many more years, and exhibit very little capacity loss.

you cannot just replace all the alkaline disposables in your house with rechargeables,

Not true. With NiMH batteries, EVERYTHING I have is operating on rechargables.

("the charger on the left is with the charged batteries that are ready for use and just being kept topped up...") you can't really share rechargeables with other family members

Yeah, 20 years ago that was a real problem. Ever since, it's been trivially easy.

it is not at all clear that you actually save money using them in a general way.

It's been overwhelmingly proven, time and time again, in study after study, that you save significant money, even with the cheapest, oldest rechargables.

Today, the situtation is worlds better, and extremely clear-cut.

Tell me, does your laptop computer operate on disposible Alkaline AA batteries, or does it use rechargeables? How about your iPod?

Re:I've given up on 'em. (1)

jabuzz (182671) | more than 7 years ago | (#17595928)

Sorry but some classes of device are not economic to run on rechargables, because they last for so long on alkalines. A prime example would be remote controls, which seem to go at least five years between replacement in my experience. Other devices should not be run on rechargables for safety reasons. For example it would be very foolish to use a rechargable in something like an avalanche transceiver.

Re:I've given up on 'em. (2, Informative)

pacmanfan (824027) | more than 7 years ago | (#17595218)

Whoa whoa whoa. Lots of misinformation here. -You really should look at flashlight output curves with alkaline cells, and then NiMH cells. While they tend to start out brighter with alkaline cells, that tends to quickly change, and NiMH cells will stay brighter for longer. The brighter the flashlight, the more this difference is amplified. -I wouldn't say rechargeables store DISTINCTLY less energy. Technology has improved, and they are now storing nearly as much energy as alkalines. I look for them to surpass alkalines sometime this year. The catch is useable energy. As currents increase, alkalines really start performing poorly. I know that with a piddly 1A current draw, NiMH cells will very noticeably outperform alkalines. I've got a flashlight pulling 3.3A, and alkalines barely last 10 minutes in it. My NiMH cells last over 40 minutes. -I'm not sure what the shelf life is of NiMH batteries, but the majority of my 4 year old cells are working fine. The reason some aren't is because I ran them too low in large battery packs (8 cell series configuration), and every now and then a weak one will reverse charge in that scenario. Now that I don't try to milk every last joule out of them before I put them on the charger, I haven't had any more problems. In my experience, capacity doesn't start noticeable dropping until at least 100 charge/drain cycles. -Complaining about a two-color status LED requiring attention? Come on man, this is Slashdot, FFS! Solid red light means it's charging, flashlight red light means it couldn't charge because of a problem, and green indicates the batteries were successfully charged. How hard is that? Even my father figured it out, and I had to show him the power button on his new TV remote the other day. And while we're on the topic, it's perfectly safe to charge any NiMH battery in any NiMH charger, regardless of brand. I'd just stay away from off-brand chargers, and even off-brand cells. Just like I don't use no-name alkalines. Cost-wise, it's something everyone has to figure out for themselves. For me, it was simple. Duracell/Energizer alkaline: ~$.60. Energizer 2500mAH NiMH cells: $2.00. Even including the electricity to charge them, the rechargeables pay for themselves in just 4 charges. There's the charger cost to consider too ($20), but recharging 4 AAs just six times covers that, by my math. I still use alkalines in my alarm clock, but that's about it. And to the other child poster: NiMHs actually do lose energy just by sitting, and in fact at a greater rate than NiCD. I believe NiMHs lose about 30% of their energy per month, while NiCD is more like 18%. This is NiMH's chief drawback IMO, but it's not significant to most people. I just use alkalines in my clocks and remotes, and NiMHs in everything else.

Fixing "dead" batteries (1)

nixman99 (518480) | more than 7 years ago | (#17595464)

In my experience, when a battery suddently dies, it's because it has gone into reversal (polarity has reversed). Once batteries reach this state, chargers won't recharge them. Cheap batteries (Hama) have this problem much more frequently than Duracell or Energizer (I can't speak to other brands). I've fixed "dead" batteries by installing them backwards in a flashlight with good batteries and turning the flashlight on for ~30 minutes. The "dead" batteries can then be recharged. Disclamer: I've done this for about a dozen batteries and it has worked fine. YMMV ps - Ever notice that the crapiest batteries (Hama) have a name similar to the best recharger brand (Maha)? Going for consumer confusion?

Energizer NiMH (4, Informative)

Eil (82413) | more than 7 years ago | (#17593282)

If, like me, you typically only use AA or AAA batteries, just go to your local department store and get the bundled 4-pack of Energizer NiMH batteries and charger for $15-20. Spring for the better, more expensive charger (or buy one online) only if you're constantly going through batteries or need sizes other than AA and AAA.

When buying the batteries themselves, go for the highest capacity they have in stock, 2500mAH or higher. Compared to alkalines, they pay for themselves after just a few recharges and each charge lasts about as long or longer than your typical alkaline battery. Most NiMH batteries are rated to last up to about 1000 charges. In my case, that means I have a better chance of losing them before they go permanently dead.

You can't replace alkalines with NiMH in all situations, though. NiMH batteries lose their charge at a rate of about 1% per day, so this takes them out of the running for low-drain applications like remote controls, digital clocks, and smoke alarms. Things that you'd never change the batteries in more than once a year. They also don't replace NiCad batteries in especially high current draw devices like RC cars.

Another possible con is that devices which contain built-in battery meters (MP3 players and PDAs) are calibrated for alkalines. Thus, when you put in an NiMH battery, they usually show the battery as being only 80% right out of the charger. However, they will stay at that level for quite a long time and then start to drop off quickly when the power is almost gone. When your device says you have about 20% left on your batteries, you probably only have a couple of minutes before they die completely. It's not a smooth discharge curve like alkalines.

But on the whole, the savings are worth it. I used to pay more in batteries for my GameBoy Advance than I did for the unit itself and the games. Now, after a $30 investment in a charger and batteries, I just rotate through the same set of batteries.

No, I didn't read the article blurb. (0)

Anonymous Coward | more than 7 years ago | (#17593360)

I use lead-acid batteries.

NiMH + Low Discharge = Hybrid (1)

ll1234 (167894) | more than 7 years ago | (#17593402)

I'm pleased with the performance of Sanyo's Eneloop [eneloopusa.com] batteries. They're rechargeable and have the capacity (middle of the road at ~2000 mAh) of NiMH with much better self-discharge properties. Sanyo claims they'll hold 85% of their charge after a year. I haven't had them long enough to test that claim but the low self-discharge rate is the reason I purchased them for my Wii controllers. It's not often three other people show up but when they do I don't want to be swapping batteries and/or charging, the remotes should just work even if they've been sitting idle for a few weeks.

A few other companies are releasing hybrid batteries, they'll be showing up in retail outlets with greater and greater frequency over the rest of the year.

Re:NiMH + Low Discharge = Hybrid (1)

Fishy (17624) | more than 7 years ago | (#17593856)

yep, I would be buying these if I didn't already have a load of generic NiMH around the place. When they eventually wear out these long discharge types must be the way to go.

duh (3, Funny)

gEvil (beta) (945888) | more than 7 years ago | (#17593426)

Potato. To recharge it you just drop it on the ground and wait.

Re:duh (0)

Anonymous Coward | more than 7 years ago | (#17594248)

Assuming you mean a potato with two pieces of dissimilar metal nails in it.. this won't work. As part of the discharge process, the metal in at least one electrodes is used up too, so it needs to be replaced.

Nintendo (1)

Paralizer (792155) | more than 7 years ago | (#17593516)

A bit off topic, but Nintendo advises for the Wii remote not to use rechargeable batteries. Since those things seem to suck an alkaline down in about a week or two of play (among everyone who has been using it recently), I thought rechargeable would be the way to go.

Is there any reason a device like this should not be using rechargeable batteries? Has anyone had positive or negative experience using rechargeables with the wiimote? If so, what type of batteries and what charger are you using?

To contribute, I use Energizer NiMH rechargables in my wireless mouse. I use a low end Merkury recharger I was given for free (I don't have the official Energizer one) and they seem to last on average about 3 weeks. The batteries physically are a little heavy, but it doesn't bother me that my mouse has a little weight to it.

Re:Nintendo (1)

friedmud (512466) | more than 7 years ago | (#17593598)

I'm using Energizer NiMH batteries in my Wiimotes... haven't had any problems.

I must have missed the part where they tell you not to use rechargeables.... but at any rate, everything is working fine. There was simply no way I was buying regular Alkalines all the damn time. Only time will tell if it damages the Wiimote.... but my bet is they are just protecting their asses in case something _did_ happen.

Friedmud

Mouse (1)

Antony-Kyre (807195) | more than 7 years ago | (#17594344)

I use Radio Shack batteries in my Microsoft Wireless IntelliMouse Explorer. Although they need charged like once a week, it's better than replacing it with new batteries every 4 weeks.

Re:Nintendo (1)

Zerth (26112) | more than 7 years ago | (#17594678)

I'm using Rayovac 15 minute nimh(just cause I can get them wholesale) in my wiimotes since november, no problems yet. They last 1-2 weeks, and really do take about 15 minutes to charge.

Re:Nintendo (1)

Zarxrax (652423) | more than 7 years ago | (#17595966)

Actually, Nintendo has added a statement on their support site saying that it is alright to use NiMh rechargeables in the wii remote: http://www.nintendo.com/consumer/systems/wii/en_na /setupWiiRemote.jsp [nintendo.com] I bought a cheap duracell charger that included some AA's. It seems to work fine, but even when fully charged, the wii software will only show 3 bars of capacity rather than the 4 bars you get on alkalines. They seem to only last about 50%-75% as long as alkalines too, but I don't really find it to be a big deal. Your mileage may vary depending on what kind of batteries you go with though.

Lead-Acid... (1)

Hymer (856453) | more than 7 years ago | (#17593520)

...excellent electrical performance (low storage loss and more than 85% power out to power in ratio, aka. efficiency), the obvious disadvantage beeing their weight. With proper maintenance (checking acid concentration and refilling) they may last forever, especially if used in temp. above 0 deg. C and below 25 deg. C.
The proper question would have been: "What is your favourite battery for purpose X ?" where X is clearly defined.

You don't want... (1)

Hymer (856453) | more than 7 years ago | (#17593622)

...to use rechargeable batteries for remote control (the IR type used for TV-sets). Been there, tried that, does'nt work: discharge rate is too big for that. You use rechargeable for high power consumption equipment and normal for low power consumption equipment. Unless your motivation is purely eco-motivated but even then it may be better to use normal "green" batteries for your remote.

Your mileage may vary (1)

moons (672643) | more than 7 years ago | (#17595636)

I use Energizer 2500mAh AA/AAA batteries in all my remotes and for me they last well over six months. I use the Energizer Compact Charger for recharging and while it takes forever (12 hours) to recharge four batteries, they seems to work okay without noticeable capacity loss over the last few years.

Re:Your mileage may vary (1)

Hymer (856453) | more than 7 years ago | (#17595934)

I usually got between 3 and 6 months... wich I consider poor since the same remote could run for 12 to 18 months on a std. AA sized battery.

Cheap NiMH ones (1)

Curmudgeonlyoldbloke (850482) | more than 7 years ago | (#17593816)

By the time they need replacing, technology will have moved on, and the answer may be "something else". But this answer seems OK to me for now.

Consumer Reports Disapointing (1)

Kalak (260968) | more than 7 years ago | (#17594058)

After seeing this, I went to Consumer Reports, and to my disappointment and surprise, they don't have much on rechargeable batteries, even with my subscription there. Basically pick a nickel-metal hydride, but they don't compare manufacturers.

Any ideas on where to find a non-biased moderately scientific comparison?

Cheapo advices (2, Interesting)

Vo0k (760020) | more than 7 years ago | (#17594234)

- avoid "famous brands", like Duracell, Philips etc. You pay premium for the name while the quality doesn't change.

- Capacity - same as with HDDs except you get amper-hours per dollar, instead of gigabytes/$. If you want to bother, calculate mAh/$ ratio for all available and pick the best. If you don't, the rule of thumb is to pick a notch or two below the highest available on market. With smaller you pay extra for costs common to manufacturing any capacity, with bigger you pay extra for cutting edge.

- make sure you get a matching charger. Some don't work with lower capacities, some with high. Good bargains for rechargables+chargers can be found. Chargers without auto-off suck.

- all rechargables discharge by themselves over time. If you use them in remotes etc, prepare for recharging bi-weekly or so. Sucks. Use in devices you use a lot. It still pays with wireless mouse/keyboard too.

- It's good to get two sets for each device, one charging, one in use. If you want the cheaper way, get one set of normal cheap batteries for time when the rechargables recharge. Remember to replace as soon as the rechargables are charged.

- Despite what they say on the packages, you can recharge standard single-use Alkalines - about 2-5 times (as opposed to hundreds with rechargables) with a slow charger. Just in case, place the charger with batteries down, on a surface that's easy to clean and not expensive, don't leave unattended and if it's not auto-off, unplug before they reach designated full capacity (that's when they start to heat up and are most prone to explode.)

Re:Cheapo advices (1)

Dr.Dubious DDQ (11968) | more than 7 years ago | (#17594770)

Despite what they say on the packages, you can recharge standard single-use Alkalines - about 2-5 times[...]

You can actually do this MORE than that under certain conditions. The trick to treating alkalines as rechargeables is that unlike NiMH and NiCad batteries, alkalines do best if you recharge them frequently, after every small use (whereas usually you hear people recommending that you mostly drain NiMH and NiCad batteries before recharging, for fear of "the memory effect"). You can never get quite back up to completely full charge, but if you charge them after every small use, you can stay pretty close to new for a long time.

Once they're drained below a certain point, you can no longer get them to recharge. I'm not sure why, but "Energizer" brand seems to drop into the "no longer rechargeable" range every easily, while on the other hand I've been using the same set of "Duracell" AA's in my digital camera for about a year and a half (recharging after every session of use.).

I-C3 batteries (0)

Anonymous Coward | more than 7 years ago | (#17594266)

I picked up a bunch of AA and AAA batteries a few years ago from Radio Shack and Fry's, they charge in 15 min and work well in high-draw things like cameras, and low-draw things like remote controls (in the remote I recharge them every year or so).

So many rechargable haters! (2, Informative)

AtariDatacenter (31657) | more than 7 years ago | (#17594536)

Wow. Just reading some of these comments, you'd think that rechargeables are horrible. I use them everywhere. Remotes, flashlights, wireless mouse, wireless keyboard, toys, lcd clocks, caller ID boxes, volt meters, you name it.

The answer is to buy cheap NiMH batteries, like so: 24 @2600mAh for $30, free shipping, free cases [all-battery.com]

Also find yourself a good charger, and this discussion seems to be filled with them. There are different onces for different needs. Be it you need 8 charging at once, C/D size and 9 volt, or you want one with a good conditioner.

At $1.25 per battery [final price, shipped], even if all the haters are correct about 'wasting NiMH batteries in low draw devices', you're still ahead of the game. And people are very satisfied with Tenergy brand batteries, and they're 2600mAh.

The real key to being happy with rechargeables is, first to buy them for all your items, and then (most important), buy those few extra batteries to fill up your battery charger. Then, when your toy/remote/whatever runs out of batteries, all you do is swap the new ones in the charger for the depleted ones in your device. Having a constant supply of charged up battiers is the key to being happy with rechargables. Very little education required for others in your household. ("If you take some batteries out of here, put your old ones back in here.")

I think the only way I'd switch away from rechargables is if I had an exceptionally high-draw item that I needed to last longer between battery changes. Like an 80s boombox if I wasn't inclined to carry a second set of batteries with me. Not that alkalines would solve the issue either, though. Just push out the depletion a little further.

Rayovac Hybrids are new, with less discharge? (1)

Karl J. Smith (184) | more than 7 years ago | (#17594552)

I haven't tried these myself, just read an article in the paper, and looked at the web page and put them on my 'to try' list.

Normally NiMH batteries discharge so rapidly when not in use that you pretty much need to remember to charge them the night before you want to use them, which is a pain when taking spare batteries on, say, a backpacking trip.

Rayovac has new 'hybrid' NiMH battery that ships fully charged and is supposed to hold a charge much longer in storage.

http://www.rayovac.com/recharge/hybrid_technology. shtml [rayovac.com]

What make a bad battery (2, Informative)

gradbert (80505) | more than 7 years ago | (#17594782)

I use 4 AA NiMH batteries in my camera (a Canon S1). I have some 2500 mAh energizer batteries that I will not use in it and I have some 1800 mAh sanyo ones that I use regularly. Why? because of variances in the batteries and their self discharge rate.

When my wife wants to take a picture of the kids doing something cute we need the either the batteries in the camera to not be discharged, or for there to be a charged set of batteries ready to go.

So I bought a bunch of 2500mAh batteries thinking these would be a good thing. but they didn't seem to last as long when shooting and they were often discharged after sitting for a while. I found out a couple of things, the first is that after using these batteries for a while I would end up with one cell that was discharged more than the others. This was enough for the camera to say that I had low batteries. The other thing was that if I charged up a set of these batteries, a week later the wouldn't have enough charge to run the camera. These batteries had a very high self discharge rate.

So at the end of it, its no good to have high advertised capacity if its not going to be there you

I have had good luck with sanyo batteries. The new sanyo eneloops have a low enough self discharge rate that out of the package they have a usable charge

Juice CRV3 Rechargeable Lithium (1)

cymen (8178) | more than 7 years ago | (#17595348)

I brought 4 CRV3 rechargeable batteries and a recharger all branded by Juice for a decent price on eBay. I think rechargeable lithium is the way to go for cameras if your camera is compatible (apparently, some have a slightly higher voltage than regular CRV3 lithium but they are working fine in my Pentax DSLR).

Everready NiMH (0)

Anonymous Coward | more than 7 years ago | (#17596034)

I pretty much use Eveready NiMH batteries in everything I use, including my digital camera. I may hsave blought about 6 alkaline in the last year when I forgot to recharge in one device or another
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