AA batteries of any kind in my residence:
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aplenty (Score:3)
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Same here. Big pack of batteries from Costco.
Lots of remotes, my wireless weather station, my consoles, and my clocks. Between them all there's probably 15-16 in use right now.
The really annoying thing is I have *one* remote which uses AAA, and the wireless thermister for my weather station uses AAA. WHYYYYY? The remote could use AA without even changing the physical size of it, and the wireless thermister would have to be about 5 mm wider to accomodate the AA. Sigh.
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Interesting how popular Costco are there. We have them in the UK and it's a VERY exclusive club, you have to either own a business or work for the government before they'll even think about letting you shop there.
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Really? I went into the local one here (in Canada) and was stopped at the door. I said I wanted to get a membership, and they let me in to the service counter where I paid for a membership. It pays itself off every time. Do they not have personal memberships there?
The do have actual brand-name batteries there. I decided to buy one of their own branded packs and realized that they last about the same as the brand name, but were half the price or less. Since then I just get the Costco branded ones.
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In my (and friends) un-scientific tests, the costco / generic-branded batteries performed poorly compared to the name-brand counterparts. I'm specifically talking about AA here. It's great to buy the huge pack for half the price, but they last half as long.
I should quantify that statement that most use has been in wii remotes and kids toys. That was about 3+ years ago. I have since ditched alkaline batteries for Sanyo rechargeables and I love them. (AA and AAA with adapters for C and D. With the wiimote, t
Costco sells Eneloop too... (Score:3)
In my (and friends) un-scientific tests, the costco / generic-branded batteries performed poorly compared to the name-brand counterparts.
Costco sells a nice package of Eneloop rechargeables (with charger), a low-discharge battery I've been really happy with.
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I second the Eneloop recommendation. We use them in all of our constant use type electronics - Wiimote, remote, keyboards, etc.
I'm actually kind of grumpy any more in the few cases (like flashlights in the car) where I have to go buy normal alkalines.
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In my (and friends) un-scientific tests, the costco / generic-branded batteries performed poorly compared to the name-brand counterparts.
Costco sells a nice package of Eneloop rechargeables (with charger), a low-discharge battery I've been really happy with.
Yes to Eneloop!
We're slowly switching all our remotes/controllers over to Eneloop as they die out, and couldn't be happier. They last *so* long, and I love that you can charge them up and stick them in a drawer for a year without having them lose half of their charge, like regular rechargeables do. Even our main point 'n shoot camera uses AA batteries (for traveling), and the Eneloops work wonderfully for it. It's so easy to toss a couple in your pocket on the way out the door, in case your batteries die
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I second Eneloops as well. More people need to hear about these things. They're perfect for jobs like remote controls and game controllers, where rechargeable batteries generally couldn't tread before due to self-discharge. You get a pack or two and you never need to buy batteries again -- you just need enough for spares to leave in the charger that you can swap out whenever you need them.
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I have since ditched alkaline batteries for Sanyo rechargeables and I love them.
I'll second that recommendation. Invest in a pack of NiMH rechargeable AAs and a charger, at least for the Wii remotes if nothing else. My kids cycle through those around twice a week. That $10 for a charger and a 4 batteries paid for itself in a couple of months.
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I have since ditched alkaline batteries for Sanyo rechargeables and I love them.
I'll second that recommendation. Invest in a pack of NiMH rechargeable AAs and a charger, at least for the Wii remotes if nothing else. My kids cycle through those around twice a week. That $10 for a charger and a 4 batteries paid for itself in a couple of months.
Not just any NiMH, Sanyo Eneloop [eneloop.info] are the best. For their Eneloop lineup, Sanyo figured out how to significantly slow down the self-discharge [eneloop.info] problem that makes regular NiMH so much less convenient than alkaline.
Foe Eneloops, you can charge them up, throw them in a drawer for a couple of years, then pop them in and use them with *maybe* 15-20% loss of the original charge. In comparison, regular NiMH lose pretty much half of their charge after sitting around for only one year, and are completely dead after
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I don't see a problem recharging all the batteries in my household every year. If only they lasted that long. The bluetooth Apple mouse needs a recharge every month, for example.
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In my (and friends) un-scientific tests, the costco / generic-branded batteries performed poorly compared to the name-brand counterparts. I'm specifically talking about AA here. It's great to buy the huge pack for half the price, but they last half as long.
Consumer Reports found they last somewhere around 90% of Energizer and cost half as much. That's a good deal in my book. Of course, they also sell Duracell if you want a name brand. Still much cheaper than other places.
I've been rather happy with the Costco generic batteries for the money.
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Perhaps you need to check if the batteries you get are alkaline or zinc-manganese. The latter will comparably suck; yes, they are still around.
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Back in the day, about 8 years ago when I worked there, much of the "Kirkland" (Costco) branded items were made by the same manufactures that made the name brand items. For example, Duracel made the 40 pack batteries, Tide made the 5 galon buckets of detergent, etc. I assume that it has something to do with volume; selling twice as many batteries at a price that is $0.20 less per batterie probably makes up for its self in volume at some point on the curve.
In any case, when I worked there Costco would ta
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Costco used to be like that in the States, about thirty years ago. Sam's Club brought competition, which forced Costco to change, or maybe it was the merger with Price Club?. At least that is how I remember it.
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100-pack for around $20 from Fry's if you catch them at the right time......
I wish.... (Score:2)
Rechargeables? (Score:2)
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The real question is how many of our AA batteries are rechargeables. I have a little family of rechargeables but try to keep as few non-rechargeables as possible. If I didn't use rechargeables, I'd probably have ballast aplenty of spares.
Unfortunately we seem to have "ballast aplenty" of both rechargeables and of regular alkaline AA batteries. I think rechargeables are the way to go; but any device my wife controls/maintains still uses regular alkaline batteries. So many devices still advise "don't use rechargeables" for no apparent reason, and she refuses to be convinced that it's just poppycock.
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The only thing I can think of is the voltage difference. Regular AAs (an all single cell alkaline) are 1.5V whereas rechargeable alkaline are 1.2V. I haven't encountered any device that it makes a difference with.
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I've got a cordless mouse from Microsoft. With a 1.5 V AA, it fails gradually every couple of months, seeming to hang intermittently or fail to detect clicks with increasing frequency. When I loaded it with a 1.2 V rechargeable, it would run fine for six weeks or so, but when the battery failed, it was all or nothing. The lifespan of a 1.6 V rechargeable wasn't that much greater than a 1.2, but it seems advisable to bother with loading it with a 1.6 V NiZn anyway. Either way, the mouse will probably have a
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With a 1.5 V AA, it fails gradually every couple of months, seeming to hang intermittently or fail to detect clicks with increasing frequency. When I loaded it with a 1.2 V rechargeable, it would run fine for six weeks or so, but when the battery failed, it was all or nothing.
The discharge profile of battery chemistries is different.
It's not something that most people think about when buying batteries.
Some batteries are great at high discharge (motors) but suck at low discharge (remote controls) and vice versa
Some chemistries have a constant voltage right up until the end, while some will exhibit a slow voltage drop till they die.
Other chemistries will have a different voltage profile depending on the temperature and usage.
Check out http://data.energizer.com/ [energizer.com] for PDFs that'll sh
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Yes, but all devices using batteries *should* accept 1.2V, because almost half of the capacity of alkaline battery is still available when the voltage has degraded to 1.2V.
I too have several devices that suggest that rechargeables = bad, but so far this hasn't turned out to be true..the most ridiculous case is my electrically warmed gloves that consumes a 2000 mAh rechargeable in a few hours...
LEDs need enough voltage (Score:2)
There are some devices, such as LEDs, that need a high enough voltage to work at all; it's just part of the physics and/or chemistry. For instance, red LEDs need 1.6-2.0v, depending on which semiconductor they use, and blues need at least 2.48. So you may not be able to light your blue LEDs with two NiMHs or worn-out alkalines, but you'd still be able to light red LEDs. Wikipedia has a table.
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The only thing I can think of is the voltage difference. Regular AAs (an all single cell alkaline) are 1.5V whereas rechargeable alkaline are 1.2V. I haven't encountered any device that it makes a difference with.
Self discharge. Rechargeables will be mostly dead in a month. Terrible idea for power outage flashlights, smoke detectors (admittedly mostly 9V powered), remote controls, kids digital toys. If they design for a device lifetime of 5 years and swap the battery every year or so, that means carefully engineer to break the battery door/case after 5 battery changes to maximize profit. However, you'll be annoyed if during your monthly rechargeable recharging routine the device breaks in "just a few months" ins
Hybrid NiMH Rechargeables last a lot longer (Score:2)
The new hybrid NiMH versions hold their voltage a lot longer - they'll last for 6-12 months of inactivity, as opposed to the conventional ones that as you say will be dry in a month. Even so, they're not what you want for power outage gear, though they're great for cameras (I don't use my cameras very often, but the high power drain means that rechargeables are much better than disposable alkalines. NiZn seems to work pretty well also.)
And there are rechargeable 9volt batteries, in NiMH as well as NiCd.
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Isn't that how you tell it's time to flip the food over?
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What do you use in your TV remote or wall clocks? The battery will self-discharge before even using up a 1/4 of its energy for useful purposes.
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I can understand that; but I have used rechargeables in a number of devices that say "don't" - so I'm not convinced that, in a lot of cases, it's not just an overzealous attempt to remove one variable from any possible problem reports, or the continuation of a warning that was significant when rechargeables were new tech. Similar to how lots of software installers still tell you to "turn off any antivirus", even though that hasn't been a significant issue for more than a decade.
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Rechargeables suck (Score:3)
Whoever can make a rechargeable cell that puts out 1.5 volts and behaves like an alkaline will own the market. I used to use Ni-MH in my handheld two-way radio and my scanner but they discharge way too fast. I got tired of the constant recharging. However, I do use them in the wireless keyboard and mouse on the main PC and they only need recharging every 2-3 months.
Rechargeables Alkalines are Old Tech, NiZn new (Score:2)
Rechargeable alkaline batteries [wikipedia.org] have been around for a long time, though apparently Rayovac stopped making them. If you took good care of them, you'd get 1.42 volts - if you let them discharge too far they wouldn't last through very many recharge cycles. Nickel Zinc batteries are newer, put out something like 1.6 volts, and are a bit hard to find (in particular, I've only found AA, not AAA.)
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I can think of one exception to this, offhand: Water sensors, like people use for detecting occasional leaks in basements and such. These usually don't draw any load except when there's enough water to complete the circuit, and are advertised to only need a new battery at five year intervals, but the wrong type of rechargeable will make them effectively worthless. There are probably some other cases like that out there.
For your NiZn batteries, I own two AA chargers, and the Rayovac model shows 2.8 volts po
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The most common reason that some devices "only" work with alkaline batteries is that alkalines have a nominal voltage of 1.5V, whereas most rechargeables (NiMH seem to be most common now) are only 1.2V. I was quite upset to find that my most recent camera refused to work with NiMH batteries. (I could take about 5 pictures before it decided that the batteries were "dead".) I don't like purchasing alkalines, because using them puts a lot of toxic chemicals into landfills, so I looked around for an alternative.
Too bad about your camera not taking common commodity rechargeables. I had the opposite experience. All my cameras that took AA cells used a DC/DC converter since the various subsystems needed different voltages to operate. So as long as the input voltage was kind of close, the DC/DC could just pull more (or less) current to give the proper outputs.
I liked that, since I could bring a set or two of charged NiMHs on vacation, and if I ran out of juice somewhere, AAs primary cells were readily available. But I
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It's good to have more solid info. I always used Lithium AA's for my camera-mounted flash unit, because they would recharge the capacitor very quickly for the whole duration of an event like a wedding, whereas the recharge time would quickly get longer and longer when using alkalines.
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I have yet to see a rechargeable AA battery. There are some that are the same size as AA, but they are only 1.2V AA batteries are 1.5V
I have some 123 batteries that are rechargeable and 3V - same as the alkaline equivalent. However the flashlight that uses that size has a faulty switch - its possibly still useable as a walking to work flashlight, but not useable for brief checking.
The largest number of battieries I have on hand wpuld be AG13 (A76, 357 , LR44 ) I buy them in packs of 100. for under $10 - ha
NiZn or old rechargeable alkaline (Score:2)
Yeah, ok, if you want to be picky, NiMH and NiCd don't put out a full 1.5v, but neither do half-discharged disposable alkalines. Most equipment doesn't care, and NiMH also has a higher amp-hour capacity than alkalines.
But if you're picky, there are Nickel Zinc cells that put out 1.6 volts, and there used to be rechargeable alkalines.
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I have yet to see a rechargeable AA battery. There are some that are the same size as AA, but they are only 1.2V AA batteries are 1.5V
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/AA_battery [wikipedia.org]
The original ANSI specification for AA batteries was made in 1947. Those specifications are now superceded by a number of different specifications for each possible chemical composition of batteries. "15D", "15A",. and "15LF" are the specifications for non-rechargable AA batteries. "1.2K2" and "1.2H2" are the specifications for NiCad and NiMH rechargeable AA batteries. But, all 5 are officially AA batteries.
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What kind of rechargeables do you use for your flash units? I find the recharge time (for flash capacitor) to be way too slow between flashes with rechargeables. For that matter, for important events I've even gone from using alkaline to using lithium for my Canon Speedlite flash unit.
Big Lots! (Score:2)
Lots of odd brand AA batteries at low cost! I'm using mostly Kodak batteries at the moment, but a lot of the time I use gray market Duracells meant for other markets. I have some rechargeables also, but I found myself not using those in much any more. If I actually played my PS/2 more I probably would.
Billions (well sort of) (Score:4, Informative)
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Landfill... seriously? You have something that contains many different toxic materials that are poisonous to humans, animals, livestock and the land itself, and you are throwing them in the normal garbage?
Haven't you ever heard of recycling these things? If there is one thing that should never go into your household waste, it's batteries. How the fuck is this hard to understand?!?
Where I live, we have collection points for batteries all over. Many stores take them back directly, other have a disposal bin ju
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Let's start by noticing that GP made a fairly neutral observation about the likelihood of a lot of batteries ending up in a landfill. You then assumed he was putting batteries in the trash. Why you thought this, I don't know. I think the tone of the original post suggested that lots of batteries in a landfill was a bad thing. GP probably shares your opinion, and you laid into him with a nasty, standoffish response.
The third paragrap
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Car batteries at parts stores usually have a core charge so you will return the battery. I don't know what happens if you buy one at a regular Wal*Mart-type store, but I don't think there's any law against just leaving the old one in the corner of your garage / apartment / nearby ditch. Well, maybe against that last one.
There's a chain around here called "Batteries Plus" which just sells batteries (<voice="hank hill>and battery accessories</voice> ). They, and similar stores, usually take reg
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Last time I bought one at Wal-Mart, there was a $6 core charge that was refunded when you gave them your old battery.
Hiding everywhere (Score:4, Interesting)
Several years ago I decided to switch over to using rechargable AAs and AAAs for almost everything after learning about Eneloop and other low self-discharge batteries that actually don't suck. After thinking about what devices I had, I bought a pack of 16 each thinking it would be plenty. Six months later I had run out, so I bought another 16-pack. A year later I ran out again and bought another 16-pack, and am starting to get low on them as I continue to find devices with dead alkaline batteries. I'm amazed at how many batteries are hidden in devices around the house.
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I know the problem - so many batteries everywhere!
I'm a strong proponent of rechargeables. Cheaper (in the long run), and also less waste. Should be better environmentally even, nice.
Yet I'm still buying normal batteries. Especially for my bicycle light: this is an LED type light, and the 2x 1.2V of rechargeables just isn't enough. The light is much dimmer than when using alkaline batteries. So much that on a first try I thought the rechargeables were almost empty!
Check the charger (Score:3)
We also use lots of rechargeables. We have a battery charger sitting on a shelf - whenever a rechargeable is replaced, the empty goes into the charger.
Just yesterday, for no particular reason, I decided to see how much current the battery charger draws. Mistake. Even with no batteries charging it draws 10 watts. That's 87kwh per year for nothing. It draws considerably more when actually charging a battery - far more than ought to be necessary. This is supposed to be a high quality charger, but apparently no
Children's toys (Score:5, Insightful)
I have a kid (3 yo) with toys that do stuff and/or beep. Easily 100 AA batteries in JUST her toys. (although she does not play with many anymore so they are getting packed up for donation) Funny thing is we got her a wooden train set, no batteries at all, and now almost all the fancy electronic toys are left alone! We will see if this holds true for more than a few weeks.
Amazing how much more powerful imagination is than batteries.
Phil
Re:Children's toys (Score:5, Funny)
Amazing how much more powerful imagination is than batteries.
Try telling that to my wife.
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The machines that created the Matrix knew of this. The human imagination is the only thing that can break the first law of thermodynamics.
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I think the original thought was that the humans were being used as biological CPUs rather than batteries. But try explaining that fact in a relatively short movie, and the audience's eyes would gloss over, so they simplified it.
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That makes so much more sense. I don't know why they couldn't have said "processing power" instead of "electrical power" and let the smart people fill in the blanks.
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How about old fashion LEGO bricks? ;)
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LEGO sets have plenty of electrically powered options, especially if you include Mindstorms.
They are still the best kids play stuff on the planet though
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Do they use a lot of batteries though? ;)
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Depends on the model, if it's just lights or intermittent motor use then it's not so bad but if you have a model where a large motor is running most of the time then you will will probablly get through multiple sets in a day.
Rechargables are an extremely good idea in such situations!
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My kid (now 5) has a few toys with batteries, mainly musical instrument kind of toys. With a series of buttons that make a sound. And a Thomas train set, which runs on batteries, that's about it.
He's also got a wooden train set, lots of it, but not playing much with it. He's mainly interested in the track building but can't do that by himself yet. Just can't get the ends to meet and so. And for the rest of course lego's and other construction kind of toys, that are his favourites. And toy cars. No batterie
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A million times this!!!!
We buy them by the 100-pack off of Amazon. Probably do a buy at least once every few months.
Between digital cameras, Mobigos, Winnie the pooh musical riders, and other annoying movement/musical contraptions, its insane how many AAs we go through.
Actually, as an engineer, out of all the pieces of junk toys that my kids get from grandparents, this one is pretty cool. I want to rip it apart and hack it. http://www.amazon.com/VTech-80-122900-Vtech-Catch-Me-Kitty/dp/B004MWK25U/ref=sr_1 [amazon.com]
Lower voltage of rechargeable batteries (Score:2)
When low self-discharge NiMH's came out, I thought the perfect rechargeable battery had finally arrived. Unfortunately, I still have a few devices out there that just do not like the lower (~1.2) voltages they produce (mostly medical gadgets).
Anyone have experience with the PowerGenix NiZn cells -- their robustness, self-discharge rate, etc? Looks like they might work, assuming nothing gets blown out by above-spec voltage.
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Alkalines will quickly discharge below NiMH discharge curve
According to the test results I have here alkaline batteries in low current operation are over halfway through their lifecycle when they drop below 1.2V. I wouldn't characterise that as "quickly"
It is true that such a device with a high cut-off voltage will leave a lot of energy in the alkaline batteries it is designed for when they fail to operate it correctly. However that has to be balanced against the wasted power from using a linear regulator with a longer string of batteries or the added complexity of
Recharge your batteries (all of them) (Score:2)
I was skeptical at first, but the little Newegg/Rosewill charger works quite well.
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I was skeptical at first, but the little Newegg/Rosewill charger works quite well.
Nice to see some new tech coming out of Roswell. (You do realize that "Rosewill" is just a cover name, don't you? Marketing department at the UFO crash site had an early day that day, and the cleaner came up with that name).
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If that's true, then we have better tech than the aliens. Rosewill is a cover name for Goodwill, because that's where I send their crap just a few months after buying it.
Voted 21-50 (Score:2)
...just because I buy them in bulk once a year and I have a fresh pack.
Recharcheable Alkaline (Score:3)
They aren't infinitely rechargeable...none are...but you WILL get your money's worth out of them.
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That web site you like to is impressively uninformative when it comes to those batteries.
If you have any actual information I'd love to hear it. This 1.2V is also an issue to me, especially for flashlights.
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NiMH (Score:2)
I have the NiMH batteries that came with my Kodak digital camera back in the late 90s. Still work but they're on their last legs.
Just picked up a 12 pack (Score:2)
I use alkalines for the wireless trackball. They only have to be replaced every 3-4 months. I had tried using NiMH rechargeables, but they required recharging every couple of weeks, and getting this old trackball to sync up with it's base station is a pain so the less often I have to change batteries the better.
Lots (Score:2)
But they're all rechargeable NiMH batteries.
Rough neigborhood? (Score:4, Funny)
Wow, what kind of neighborhood do you guys live in that requires so many AA batteries? Even Pyongyang only has 150. [militaryphotos.net]
Re:Rough neigborhood? (Score:5, Funny)
On-location photographer (Score:2)
I'm a part-time on-location photographer.
I own 5 small flashes, and for each one I have 4 AA's inside, 4 rechargeable AA's as well as 4 brand new non-rechargeable AA's as backup.
I also own 5 pocket wizards (remote controls for small flashes) with 2 AA's each (+backup).
So that's already 80 for photography only. I suppose I got more than 100 in total.
Valuable (Score:2)
The Washington D.C. area has many people who overreact to harsh weather systems and they have plenty of money to spend frivolously. During any kind of severe weather warning you can't buy D batteries anywhere is my area for a week before or a week after. I finally gave up and bought emergency devices ( strapon forehead flashlight, hand crank powered radio, etc ) that use AA and AAA batteries which are always on store shelves even when the rack for D batteries are completely cleaned out. Yes, I also keep rec
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NiMH AA everywhere (Score:2)
10-20, but mostly rechargeables (Score:2)
10-20 here. Two in the TV remote, about 10 in various Wii remotes, guitars and other such game console controllers, two in a clock on the wall, two in a Logitech wireless mouse and ... that's about it I think. :)
All but the four in the TV remote and wall clock are rechargables.
Number owned a poor measure (Score:2)
Lots of AAA, not so many AA (Score:2)
AA remotes tend to use only one. AAA remotes use two. All my LED flashlights and headlamps are AAA. Really, all portable devices that use disposable batteries are AAA. AA's are confined to a few remotes and a bathroom scale.
Just bought a couple Costco packs... (Score:2)
So 100+ for me. (Although these will last me quite a while, and I still have a few dozen in a bag waiting to go to recycling.)
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So you don't own a wireless mouse or a remote control?
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Too many remotes I've used lately use AAAs for no good reason.
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Some of mine take AAs for no good reason.
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Harley-Davidson.
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I don't use AA because all my batteries are using IEC code and not the US code...
It gives me *R03 *R6 *R14 *R20.
* = {'','L', 'F'}
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I don't use AA because all my batteries are using IEC code and not the US code...
It gives me *R03 *R6 *R14 *R20. * = {'','L', 'F'}
Do you actually have any AA/LR6 batteries not labeled both ways, or are you just disappointed that there was nothing about inches in this poll?
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I have a Tandy Model 100 laptop at home. It uses 4 AA batteries and runs for about 20 hours off of them. It's a beast with 3K of RAM
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Kidding. I remember the Model 100 quite well. I wanted one of those SO much back in the day.
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Make, model?
I flatly do not believe you.
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I think you're confusing 18650s with AAs. They look similar [flickr.com], but are not the same.