2003? The "Aluminum" era of Powerbooks had cases that were total crap. I owned three of them (one G4, two Intel) and the worst part was that the optical drive mount would go out of alignment and it couldn't eject disks. Also, the skin oils in the palms of my hands etched the surface of the case like crazy. They were just bad, but I had a "Pismo" G3 from 2000 that was even worse about falling apart inside.
I'm currently using a "Late 2011" 17" MacBook Pro that I got in 2012 when Apple announced that they would be discontinued. The "Unibody" cases are much more sturdy. Mine has been through a lot of bumps and scratches, and the worst thing that happened was I dropped it on the corner by the power plug and the video connector came loose and had to be re-seated. The second worst thing was after four years, gunk accumulated under the edges of the trackpad and it wouldn't click properly anymore. I fixed that too. (I'm aware that some of that series had GPU problems that were probably due to lead-free solder, but not mine.) Quad i7, full-HD 16:10 LED-backlight display, upgraded to 16GB RAM and SSD. It's been a fucking workhorse. I still feel like all the Retina models so far would be a downgrade.
So "Crappy model of Powerbook is crappy." Who'd have thunk it?
SCSI? nobody else (in the consumer market) used that
ADB? nobody else used that (it was for the keyboard/mouse, not printers)
Mini-DIN 8 RS-422 serial? nobody else used that
Firewire? hardly any non-Mac people used that, and most of the PCs that did used the stupid Sony iLink connector with no power so they could connect to cameras, and cameras don't use it anymore
Optical out? That stupid little switch in my MBP's headphone jack gets stuck into "optical cable present" mode when I unplug headphones, but fortunately I can store a toothpick (to unjam it) in the hinge area above the keyboard and it will still close properly
USB A? There are over 15 years worth of everybody using it, and the plugs are everywhere. I have a crate overflowing with cables and various thingies that use it. But nothing yet with USB C. Don't get me wrong, I think USB C is a good thing, but even modern TV sets that got rid of S-video inputs in favor of HDMI still have composite video inputs.
many of the top VPN players have given up on finding ways to Netflix's block tech.
Maybe they could try to accidentally Netflix's block tech.
If only there were some way you could turn all of that off. Maybe they could put it into a control panel widget or something. (Yes, including the thing with the keyboard.)
At least it ceases to suck when you do that on a Mac. On a Windows laptop it merely sucks a little less when you turn everything off.
I normally use a MacBook Pro, and Apple's touchpads have always been superior, even before they got gestures. Whenever I would have to use a Windows laptop, the touchpads universally sucked. They sucked even more so in PS/2 emulation mode because of that fucking "tap-to-click" which was on by default in emulation mode. The result was that when dragging stuff, it would randomly report mouse clicks. Never mind that they always had two perfectly usable buttons right below the pad. I would always have to find and install the stupid drivers just so I could turn that abomination off. Synaptics or Alps, they both sucked.
The only modern "gesture" I use is two-finger scroll. I miss it when I use an older MacBook Pro or Powerbook G4. And that's the other part of Windows trackpads that I hate. The early ones had a scrolling region in the edge, which is simply a pain in the ass to use. Eventually they did get two-finger scroll, but the few times I have had it, it is quite jumpy compared to a real scroll wheel.
Literally the only problem I have had with the MBP trackpad (pre-Retina, at least) is that eventually dead skin gunk accumulates under the top edge and keeps it from clicking properly. To clean it out, you have to remove the trackpad to get access to clean the gunk out of that (machined) edge. The 17" model has good access, but I also have a first-gen 15" unibody where I was almost but not quite able to get it open because I needed a long, thin screwdriver, and the screwdriver kit I had that day had bits that were too short.
I'm a touch typist who keeps my fingernails to about 1mm most of the time. Right now the my 4-year-old 17" MacBook Pro keyboard has five keys where the black color on top has been eroded away: E A S D and left shift. The control and command keys area also showing some wear on the top coating.
So what happens when the key is an active electronic device? I guess at some point a key top will just stop working. At the worst it might even short something out. And I know they will want it to rewrite the key tops when you use the accent composing feature, so just hope that a key doesn't die right after you hit option-E!
"my terminal is a lethal teaspoon." -- Patricia O Tuama